Butterfly lighting photography is a classic technique widely used in portrait and beauty shoots. It creates soft, even light that flatters the face and adds shape to the image. In this article, you will learn the basics, the necessary equipment, step-by-step setup instructions, and tips to improve your butterfly lighting.
What is butterfly lighting in photography?
Butterfly lighting is a popular technique in portrait photography where the main light is placed directly in front of the subject’s face. This setup creates a distinctive butterfly-shaped shadow under the nose and chin. For beginners, this shadow helps position the light correctly and achieve the desired effect.
The origins of butterfly lighting photography can be traced back to Hollywood’s Golden Age. In the 1930s and 1940s, glamour photographers used this style to capture the beauty of stars like Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich. It quickly became an essential lighting method in Hollywood.
Also called “Paramount Lighting” or “Glamour Lighting,” it remains a favorite among photographers because it highlights cheekbones and facial features, making the subject look slimmer and the face longer. It is commonly used in beauty photography, fashion shoots, and portrait sessions.
Essential equipment for butterfly lighting photography
Butterfly lighting photography setup requires only a few basic tools. Here are the essential items to get started.
Cameras and Lenses
To capture butterfly-lighting portraits, you need a camera with a suitable lens.
A camera with a large sensor and good low-light performance is ideal. Popular models include the Canon EOS R6, Nikon Z6 II, and Sony A7 III. Even modern smartphones like the latest iPhone models have effective portrait modes.
When it comes to lenses, prime lenses with focal lengths between 50mm and 85mm work best for portraits. Examples include the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G, and Sony FE 85mm f/1.8. You can also use a telephoto lens if your shooting space allows enough distance to focus properly.
Light Source
Butterfly lighting photography needs a key light that can be an artificial or natural lighting source. In other words, you can use LED studio lights, speedlights, strobes, or even the sun. The most important factor is the placement of the light, which we will cover later.
For example, the COLBOR CL330 is a 330W LED for studio photography butterfly lighting. It delivers soft, stable light with high color accuracy, featuring a TM-30 index of Rf96/Rg103 at 3200K, an SSI score of 85, and CRI/TLCI ratings of 97+. These qualities help produce flattering shadows and natural skin tones, making it perfect for beauty and portrait work.
Reflector
A reflector is essential in a butterfly lighting photography kit because it can soften the shadows under the chin. A 5-in-1 reflector with a silver side works well, as it bounces strong, bright light back onto the subject. Place it below the face and angle it upward to reduce shadows and create a more balanced look.
Light modifiers
To create soft and flattering butterfly shadows, you will need a light modifier like a softbox or umbrella. These help diffuse the light for a smooth look. A 24-inch or 36-inch softbox is a common choice, depending on your space and subject size.
Light stand and tripod
A light stand is needed to hold your key light in place. Some setups may also use a boom arm to position the light from above. A tripod is optional when using powerful studio lights, as you can often shoot handheld. But if you are working with natural light, it can help avoid blur by keeping the camera steady.
4 steps to set up butterfly lighting for portrait photography
Basic butterfly lighting photography is simple to set up because it only needs one light. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you do it.
1. Set the camera directly in front of the subject
To start your butterfly lighting setup, place the camera at eye level, directly facing the subject for a balanced and flattering portrait. Use a tripod if you want added stability.
Have your subject sit or stand in front of a white or neutral background to create the clean, polished look butterfly lighting is known for. If the background is dark, ensure the subject faces the light source to avoid unwanted shadows and keep their face well-lit.
2. Position the key light for butterfly lighting photography
Next, position the key light directly in front of the subject, at about a 45-degree angle. Position it roughly four feet away and slightly above the subject’s eye level. Then you can see a butterfly-shaped shadow under the subject’s nose. Use a light stand or C-stand to hold the light securely.
3. Use modifier to adjust butterfly lighting quality
Then, choose a modifier to create soft or hard butterfly lighting based on the effect you want for your portrait. Use a beauty dish or softbox for soft, flattering light. For a more focused and harder light, add a grid. To ensure proper exposure, measure the light intensity with an external meter. If you don’t have one, take test shots and adjust your camera settings and flash power until the lighting looks right.
4. Place the reflector to control the butterfly shadow
Next, position the reflector to serve as fill light for butterfly lighting photography. This can brighten the subject’s chin and soften shadows caused by the key light.
Start by placing the reflector under the subject’s face at about waist level and observe the effect. If shadows are still too strong, gradually move the reflector closer to the face.
The reflector should be positioned at a 45-degree angle and about two feet away from the subject. You can experiment with different positions to achieve your desired look.
Once you’re satisfied with the butterfly lighting effect, guide the model into a striking fashion pose or the desired expression. Remember to keep the subject’s face turned toward the light to maintain the classic butterfly shadow under the nose.
Tips to improve your butterfly lighting effect
Here are some practical tips to improve your butterfly lighting photography and add your style.
Adjust the angle and height of the key light: The key light creates the signature butterfly shadow under the nose. Try adjusting its height or angle slightly to modify the shadow shape and give your portrait a different look.
Move the subject to a new background: Instead of using a plain white background, place your subject in front of a colored wall or outdoors. Just make sure their face stays directed toward the key light to keep the lighting consistent.
Try a different reflector: The type and color of the reflector can change the mood of your photo. A white reflector gives a soft, neutral fill, while a gold one adds warmth. Try a black reflector for a more dramatic effect.
Add more lights: While butterfly lighting typically uses one key light and a reflector, adding extra lights can enhance the scene. A hair light helps separate the subject from the background, and a background light can add depth or texture.
Use colored butterfly lighting: Swap out neutral white light for colored options like amber or blue to create a specific mood. Be sure to choose tones that work well with the subject’s skin tone.
FAQ
Here are some common questions about butterfly lighting photography.
When to use butterfly light in photography?
Butterfly lighting works well for headshots, beauty, and fashion photography. It flatters subjects with defined cheekbones and soft facial features. This makes it a popular choice for beauty, boudoir, and glamour photography, though it also suits men, children, and older subjects just as well.
How do you create it with natural light?
You can capture butterfly lighting with natural light by placing your subject where sunlight hits from the front and slightly above — for example, beside a tall window around noon. To manage facial shadows and enhance the butterfly effect, use a reflector below the subject’s face. This setup allows you to create flattering portraits using only natural light, with no need for studio equipment.
What mood does butterfly lighting create?
It typically creates a mood of timeless elegance and classic beauty. Its gentle, balanced light often brings a warm and calm feeling to the image.